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Волки, львы и снежные барсы: как прошел кутюрный показ Schiaparelli и почему бренд на грани скандала

 23 Январь 2023    МОДА

Сегодня в Париже стартовала кутюрная Неделя моды. И началась она с невероятно красивого показа Schiaparelli. В этот раз креативный директор бренда Дэниел Розберри вдохновился «Божественной комедией» Данте, а сама коллекция получила название «Инферно».

В первом ряду гордо сидели Кайли Дженнер, Doja Cat, Анна Винтур и целая плеяда гостей А-листа, а на подиум буквально выплывали модели в платьях с причудливыми топами-щитами, костюмах в форме песочных часов и объемных жакетах из кружева. Но самым обсуждаемым моментом шоу стали выходы Ирины Шейк, Наоми Кэмпбелл и Шалом Харлоу. Трем легендарным моделям достались платья с искусственными головами животных.

Без скандала, конечно, не обошлось. После шоу на бренд ополчилась армия зоозащитников, которая обвинила Schiaparelli в романтизации насилия над животными. Не спас даже пост, в котором команда объясняет, что при создании голов льва, волка и снежного барса не пострадало ни одно животное. Негативные комментарии продолжают сыпаться со всех сторон.

Даже представители индустрии разделились на два лагеря. Первые придерживаются мнения, что животный мир – лейтмотив дома, к которому обращалась не только сама Эльза Скиапарелли, но и предыдущий креативный директор Бертран Гийон. Для кутюрной коллекции 2019 года он заказал у легендарного шляпника Стивена Джонса головные уборы в виде собак, пантер и фламинго.

Шуба Schiaparelli 1938 год. Фото: архив бренда

Что касается самой основательницы бренда, она еще в 1938 году представила шубу из меха рыси и шапку из ее головы.

А вот вторые по-прежнему считают, что любой намек на чучела животных – страшный грех и непростительное дизайнерское решение. Даже несмотря на то что оно было использовано как отсылка к вышеупомянутой «Божественной комедии» Данте. Для тех, кто не в курсе, объясняем. События эпоса излагаются автором от первого лица, а в вводной части поэт рассказывает, как он, достигнув середины жизненного пути, заблудился в дремучем лесу, где встретил трех диких зверей – рысь, льва и волчицу. Каждое животное олицетворяло три самые сильные страсти – сладострастие, гордыню и корыстолюбие. Именно поэтому на подиуме появились Ирина Шейк – львица, Наоми Кэмпбелл – волчица и Шалом Харлоу – снежный леопард.

И вот тут возникает вопрос. Значит ли это, что в современном мире творцы должны жертвовать замысловатыми отсылками в угоду широкой общественности, которая может оскорбиться практически от всего, что не понимает до конца? На этот отчасти риторический вопрос сможет ответить разве что философ. И то не факт. Поэтому мы предлагаем отвлечься от лишних мыслей и просто взглянуть на коллекцию Дэниела Розберри свежим взглядом. Собрали все 32 образа в нашей галерее.

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